Monday, March 5, 2012

The Dried Fruit & Nut Culture of Turkey

Wandering casually around the local markets you can pick up the typical ‘genuine fake’ clothing and fashion accessories but what catches my eye every time is the distinct array of colours proudly parading themselves along every isle.  The richness of these colours come from the surprisingly large fruit and vegetables; all grown locally.  There are sacks upon sacks of nuts, grains, spices and herbal tea; hanging dried fruits stringed together subtly scenting the air as you walk by.

 Food is clearly a part of the Turkish culture but I think the dried fruits and nuts known as “Kuruyemiş” (literally meaning “dried fruits”) are almost part of everyday life. In the evenings you see old and young alike on street corners or individuals walking along nibbling sunflower seeds, or even at home with friends and family where newspaper is set out on the table where slowly but surely a pyramid of hulls steadily grows. And it makes me laugh how you can guarantee that the morning after the night before, you will always see the mountains of evidence littering the pavements and roadsides where friends gathered!


Nut Selection at Manavgat Market

Interestingly, there are “rules” that apply so one knows in what situation to eat what nuts!  Being English (and a little tongue in cheek at this point), I just always assumed dried fruits and nuts came out at Christmas and occasionally nibbled from rather expensive packets bought at the local supermarket if you felt flush that month!

As a much-consumed foodstuff, dried fruits and nuts play an important role in the Turkish economy. Shops dealing exclusively in nuts and dried fruits are now commonplace throughout Antalya, and it is the most common food sold at the local cornershop/market very cheaply.


… Interesting insight …

A friend recently said to me; “It’s a food used to pass the time,
and as we sit carelessly filling the cleanest areas with their hulls,
we take for granted that there is someone whose job it is to come sweep them up.
It is so normal for us now that we are shocked
when snacks are forbidden in open-air venues!”


So, when exactly does one eat ones nuts?!

*  Squash and sunflower seeds (çekirdek): These have become practically indispensable when going to the park to relax; so much so that parks are identified with çekirdek, as if it’s impossible to sit in the park without them. This is why the entrances to parks are full of sellers of squash and sunflower seeds.

*  Open-air and regular cinemas are places where sunflower and squash seeds are most consumed. I find the sound of cracking shells actually annoying now as when you want to watch a film all you can hear is “crunch, crack, nibble-nibble!  Crunch, crack, nibble-nibble! …”

*  Dry fruits and nuts also add colour to festivals. This dates back to when sweets and candy were not common so people gave children handfuls of dry nuts and fruits.  Healthier too!!!

*  Children at weddings and young women at henna nights accompany their celebration with dried fruits and nuts.

*  Dried fruits and/or nuts are always a part of the 'meze' served along with alcoholic drinks, and at cocktail parties, or whenever alcohol is served.

*  In the villages, dry fruit and nuts help people pass the long winter nights. They are served to guests. In the old days, when tea and coffee was not readily available, it was very common to serve guests plates of dry fruit and nuts.


Dried fruits and nuts are
an integral part of
traditional hospitality.


*  One for the teachers (healthy breaktime snacks)... In the past when children went to school, mothers filled their pockets or bags with whatever dried fruit or nuts were available but today, they are given to the children at mealtimes, provided free by the state. Especially nutritious ones such as raisins and hazelnuts are distributed.

Dried fruits and nuts are used in a variety of desserts, such as pistachio and walnut baklava …. Mmmmmmm  … Yum!


Our treat!


This is a great use …
Nuts are often used as toys;
children play with walnuts on the street
in place of marbles or conkers!


Not that surprisingly fruits and nuts are especially popular at parties or other festive gatherings in Antalya.

*  They are a popular food for long trips and such foods are the most-sold items at the rest stops along intercity bus routes (in my experience, at higher prices too, so travel prepared!!)



… Another little insight …

Many different regions, provinces or towns are famous for one or another type of dried fruit or nut. Some examples are the roasted chickpeas (leblebi) of Çorum, the pistachios of Gaziantep, apricots of Malatya, and the hazelnuts of the Black Sea. In these areas, dried fruits or nuts have become an area of local expertise. For example in Çorum, you can find leblebi flavoured with salt, pepper, clove and sugar.



*  For the smokers amongst you … Even people who are trying to quit smoking eat lots of nuts, in order substitute something else for the cigarettes. They use it to try and forget their craving for cigarettes.

*  And the last one now for the ladies … Unsalted squash seeds are much consumed at hot springs/spas, in order to do away with stretch marks on the body etc., especially the seeds of winter squash.